Tag Archives: Rhode Island

Walking the cliff.

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Still having some daylight left on our fifth day in Newport, Rhode Island we visited the number one tourist attraction in the area.

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The Cliff Walk. A local favorite and an absolute must do for visitors.

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Parking is a challenge and we had to hike a while past the beach just to reach the entrance to the famous walk.

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But finally, we were there.

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This is a 3 1/2 mile walk along the shore and takes you right past the backyards of all those fabulous Bellevue Avenue mansions we’d been touring.

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It was gorgeous.

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Wild beach roses filled the air with heady perfume…

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And randomly placed plaques were filled with information.

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The beginning of the walk is easy going, with mostly flat paths.

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At some spots, you’re right over the cliff face…

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Others have high retaining walls.

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I should have taken more videos, but I didn’t.

Just this one.

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As beautiful a spot as this is, I can’t say I’d be thrilled to have crowds walking past my backyard every day.

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Even if there are fences and gates.

To be continued…

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The blog where we view the views…

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Finished with the interior tour of Doris Duke’s Rough Point estate, we headed outside.

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Where the clouds made a dramatic backdrop.

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Doris loved it here…

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And I have to say…

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I understand why.

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The location is perfect.

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The views of the Atlantic Ocean divine.

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It’s an impressive place to be sure.

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Strolling around the side, we found a gated garden.

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With a warning sign.

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Does everyone have bunnies but me?

😫

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At the front of the estate…

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Wired topiaries of Doris’s pet camels.

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They’re filled with succulents that hadn’t quite greened up yet.

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And over there?

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The formal garden that I had to explore.

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Bit disappointing, that.

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Not formal and nothing blooming in its one small bed.

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The hedge was the best part.

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No matter, it’s still a lovely place to stroll.

And as we were pulling out of the driveway? We passed a time appropriate vehicle.

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😊

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That Renoir totally clashes…

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Climbing the servant’s stairs to the second floor of Rough Point…

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We were surprised to find a mini museum.

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Of furniture.

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But learned a good bit about trade and the history of Newport.

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The oldest piece on display?

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A woven chair from 1680.

And as we moved on to view Doris Duke’s (in)famous bedroom?

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The husband found someone to talk to, so I toured her (in)famous bedroom alone.

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My first reaction was… wow.

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Yellow and purple. Not the most subtle color combination.

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And I can’t say it does much for the Renoir hanging on the mirror.

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They say this room was redecorated in the 1970’s and I have no trouble believing that.

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The furniture? Mother of pearl throughout, which makes for lots of sparkles.

This was said to be her favorite room in the house.

Yikes.

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The bathroom.

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Busy, busy, busy.

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With a fish faucet.

The husband?

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Still talking…

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Doris, as a child.

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Upstairs sitting room where Doris played piano and recorded.

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Hallway bench.

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With interesting sign.

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Down the front stairs, with family crests and coats of arms in stained glass.

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Intricately carved banisters and railings…

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And our tour of the Rough Point interior was complete.

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Rough Point… and Doris’s plastic potatoes.

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Continuing our tour of Doris Duke’s Rough Point estate… the morning room.

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Because when you’re rich, every time of the day has its own room.

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Family crest stained glass windows.

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The dining room was odd as it was a huge, mostly empty space.

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Doris preferred her table, without extensions, in front of the window

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And this was her absolutely favorite piece.

She loved it so much, she took it with her when traveling.

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Apparently a house is not a home without a giant silver swan.

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I thought this was a nice touch.

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Doris’s record collection only contained vintage albums.

Husband chose Louis Armstrong as he was a frequent guest. You can’t go wrong with Satchmo.

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Multiple kitchens.

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With old, but still working appliances.

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The kitchen was 3 separate rooms.

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All with nice views.

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It’s a very workable space.

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Though I could have done without the plastic veggies…

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And pots full of plastic boiling potatoes.

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I get it.

It’s a kitchen. There was food.

😉

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Day 5, where we meet Doris Duke.

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Fourth morning in Newport, Rhode Island…. fourth balcony selfie.

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I’m nothing if not consistent.

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First stop of the day? Rough Point… heiress and famous philanthropist Doris Duke’s residence.

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Built by a Vanderbilt in 1887 and purchased by Doris’s father, James Buchanan Duke (of Duke energy and Duke University fame) in 1922… this plaque recognizes the original owners.

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Ironically, considering they were pushed off the land along with all the other Eastern tribes.

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Doris Duke’s father died when she was 12 and she was the sole inheritor of his fortune. She grew up here, spent summers for many years, and then lived here year round, off and on until her death in 1993.

Doris was quite a character. Deemed the richest little girl in the world, her life was full of privilege but laced with sadness.

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Entering the home, some history.

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Doris inherited $80 million dollars in 1925.

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A shrewd business woman, she gave away over $400 million in her lifetime.

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A news correspondent, a jazz pianist and the first non Hawaiian woman to take up competitive surfing…Doris lived a full life.

Her “cottage” is a bit different from others we’ve visited.

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Yes, it’s huge.

And grand.

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But it’s also a veritable museum.

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Oh, there’s a Van Dyck.

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There’s a Gainsborough…

And sure, there’s a Renoir in the bedroom.

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But Doris lived here until the early 1990’s, so there’s also a microwave in the kitchen and a record player in the dining room.

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The solarium?

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Had some stellar views.

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And…

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Yes, Doris had two pet camels.

As one does.

Doris loved music, and entertaining.

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The Yellow Room…

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And the Music Room hosted impromptu performances by friends Louis Armstrong and Frank Sinatra.

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Doris knew how to throw a party.

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The best meal of our trip.

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Since we were back in Tiverton and it was long after lunch but slightly before dinner, we took a chance on the highly rated Boat House restaurant that was too crowded the first time we stopped.

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It really is a gorgeous spot.

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And equally as attractive inside as out, with lovely views from all the tables.

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Which is why we sat at the bar.

*sigh…*

Oh well, my Limoncello margarita was fabulous no matter where I parked my keister.

Reposado tequila, limoncello, lemon, agave. Simple, and delicious.

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A perfect compliment to my Caesar salad with homemade croutons.

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Husband’s seafood chowder was rich and delicious.

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Cocktail #2, and okay… #3 as well… was the Princessa, a bar favorite.

Bacardi Limon, strawberry purée, fresh lemon juice, club soda, mint. Again, simple but fabulous.

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As you know we tend to be picky when we eat out. A place has to check 3 boxes to earn a star from us. Atmosphere, cocktails and food quality.

So far, so good.

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Husband’s filet mignon with burgundy demi glacé, asparagus and garlic mashed potatoes?

Perfection.

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My lemon beurre blanc grilled shrimp , roasted Brussels sprouts and garlic mashed potatoes?

Perfect as well.

And dessert?

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Good grief. Bananas Foster cheesecake with caramel drizzle, banana liqueur soaked bananas, homemade cinnamon whipped cream and chocolate lace.

Be still my heart…. this place was goooood!

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I swear to God I’d be tempted to make the 4 hour drive from Maine just to eat there again.

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Even if I have to fight off all the people who live in this mini mountain of high end condos right beside it.

😉

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You get a stone wall. And you get a stone wall. Everyone gets a stone wall….

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This is the area where we did most of our exploring while in Rhode Island.

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We stayed in Newport at the end of one peninsula but drove up and over and down another through Tiverton, Little Compton and Sakonnet.

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Beautiful places all, but one thing that always stood out?

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The stone walls.

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Everywhere.

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In front of every house.

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Some beautifully maintained and manicured…

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Some tumbling and overgrown.

I live in Maine, we know stone walls. Our home alone has three, well… four if you count the one you can’t see down back in our woods… on our property. Our neighbors have none.

But in this section of Rhode Island?

They’re everywhere.

On both sides of the street… for miles.

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In Maine, some stone walls have been in place for hundreds of years. They came about when farmers needed to clear fields for planting or livestock. The stones were dug up, hauled away and used as fences.

Necessity, meet invention.

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But today if you build a house and want a stone wall? Prepare to pay.

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We had a friend who built them for a living and did very well.

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We haven’t had contact with him for almost decade but I remember the last time we saw him on a job in 2016… he was charging $1,000 for every 10 feet, plus the cost of the stone which will make you gasp.

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I can only imagine what he charges now.

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Antiquing, and a scenic drive.

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No vacation with my husband is complete without at least one trip to a junk filled hovel an antique store.

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The Newport area doesn’t have many but he found this one off the beaten path on the way to Tiverton.

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I’m not sure what crime this plant committed to be locked up in a cage, but it seemed relatively happy.

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Calling this place an antique store is a stretch. It had no name, no organization, no clever displays …

There was just stuff, a lot of it broken, everywhere… piled on top of each other.

My husband was in heaven.

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He found a stash of old BB gun air rifles and was transported back to his (more than slightly dangerous) childhood.

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I spotted an old phone similar to one I wanted for the man cave/Barn Mahal… but like everything else in this place it was useless, the guts had been torn out.

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Husband found a gun he wanted to buy but didn’t want to overpay. Since we were in a cell phone dead zone, he couldn’t look it up and had me take a picture for later.

Continuing our scenic drive we made it five minutes down the road, past a vine covered pole in the shape of a tree…

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When he pulled over to research the toy gun. Turns out it was worth 3 times the $50 asking price so he had to have it. Whipping the car around, we went back to the crap filled hovel store… only to find the old lady had closed. At 2:20 in the afternoon, on a Tuesday.

The husband was bereft. He searched the door and windows in vain for a phone number, but found only cobwebs.

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We drove on.

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Down through Tiverton…

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Past Little Compton…

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To Sakonnet Point, where this stack of rusted anchors reminded me of our resort’s artwork.

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Lovely waterfront areas all.

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And in case you’re interested? This house is for sale…

https://www.compass.com/listing/1660-main-road-tiverton-ri-02878/1755162903387237009/

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For a mere $13,250 a month.

If you buy it let me know, we can meet for cocktails on the porch.

😉

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A rustic winery and a first rate second choice meal.

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Next stop… Sakonnet Winery.

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We’re not big wine drinkers but it’s the gift of choice for our cat sitting neighbor… and we have to keep her, and therefore His Royal Highness, happy.

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It was a lovely drive and just when we thought we’d never find it…

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A very large cat.

This winery is way off the beaten path and after a long dirt driveway…

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Another large cat.

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And a large bull.

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There was a barn.

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Some outdoor seating.

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And a tasting room.

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Where we paid $25 for four very small pours.

None of which we really liked.

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But it’s Rhode Island, what do they know about wine?

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Continuing on, we went in search of food.

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Past some lovely old homes in Tiverton.

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Sadly, when we arrived at the much anticipated and highly reviewed Boat House restaurant…

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It was packed to capacity and there was a two hour wait.

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Which is when we turned back and found an unassuming little place called Fieldstone’s.

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It was crowded as well but we snagged a seat at the bar where I ordered a spring Cosmo.

Ketel One vodka, watermelon pucker, fresh strawberry, fresh lime, and a splash of cranberry juice.

Tasty, and potent.

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My shrimp scampi bruschetta appetizer was amazing.

Sautéed shrimp, capers and grape tomatoes in a lemon garlic butter sauce and served over garlic Parmesan toast.

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Husband went with shepherds pie, which was swimming in a rich brown gravy unlike his mother’s bland recipe. I considered that a win, but boys like their momma’s cooking so he was unimpressed.

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On the other hand, my sherried chicken? Ooh la la!

I’d drive four hours from Maine just to have it again.

Sautéed chicken breast with chopped bacon, caramelized onions and crumbled bleu cheese in a creamy sherry sauce, served with mashed potato and broccoli.

Yum!

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A mystery topiary, a really big tree and talking with the expert.

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Continuing on with our exploration of the Green Animals Topiary Garden in Portsmouth, we left the garden proper and strolled past the house.

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Which was lined with impressively trimmed shrubbery.

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Sadly the home is not open to tours…

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But there’s a big porch with comfortable chairs where you’re invited to sit.

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We opted for a bench under the shade of a giant tree.

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The lawn slopes down to Narragansett Bay, where we spotted another topiary.

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A rather oddly shaped topiary that my husband and I pondered greatly.

I said long legged turtle.

He said hunchbacked manatee.

What say you?

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Walking back around the house we saw some ornate wrought iron and walls in much need of scraping and paint.

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On the other side of the house… a truly magnificent tree.

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A grand old gentleman who no doubt had outlived many of the home’s owners.

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Husband, for scale.

We were so impressed by the tree we asked one the attendants how old they thought it was…. which was when he directed us to the resident expert of all things.

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This charming young lady of 91 actually worked on the estate as head housekeeper for the last living owner. She had some wonderful stories about the place and informed us the tree in question was over 150 years old.

She lives right up the road and walks down to the gardens every day to help the docents …. as well as socialize. She told us she was quite unhappy with the current crew of topiary trimmers. The policeman was too fat, the giraffe was too short and the goose looked like a duck.

Knowing we were talking to the authority, we asked what the mystery topiary down by the bay was supposed to be.

Not a turtle. Not a manatee.

It was a bear.

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Wow.

No wonder she’s unhappy…

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