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Since resort check in wasn’t until 4:00pm we had some time to kill. And when you have time to kill in this area of Vermont? You drive through The Notch.
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It’s basically a road cut right through the mountain and it’s one of my absolute favorite drives.
Twisty, turny and littered with glacial granite boulders…. it’s a rock lovers dream.
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Not that it’s the easiest road to navigate mind you. The switchbacks are breath taking, the proximity to boulders cringe worthy. In places you’re absolutely blind and are left crossing everything you have that nothing is coming the other way when the road narrows so tightly only one car can pass.
My husband drives it like sport.
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On the other side of The Notch? Stowe… a lovely village I’ll highlight later. And in Stowe?
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An amazing local brewery.
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We had to stand in line half an hour to get in, on a Tuesday, at 2:30 in the afternoon. It’s that good. I was willing to wait longer to sit in one of the artfully decorated dining rooms (the giant velvet cow print couch was calling my name) but the husband snatched two seats at the bar as soon as they became available.
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One flight in…. on an amazing polished copper bar, we were already loving this place.
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The Kolsch was delightful, the Pink and Pale seriously puckering.
And since we were at a brewery….
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I had to try the monster soft pretzel. Not only does Idletyme brew their own beer, they make their own beer cheese and grind their own mustard. A win win.
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As was this hot spiced cider with rum. Hey, when in Rome…
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My chargrilled mushroom Swiss burger with crispy onions and Caesar salad was good, but my husband’s choice?
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Ooh la la! So beyond the normal pub fare … we might have drooled. Butternut squash ravioli with maple cream sauce, sliced almonds and a hint of cayenne for bite. It was utterly fabulous.
Too stuffed for dessert, we headed back through The Notch and it’s amazing selection of rocks.
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And mini waterfalls breaking through at random intervals.
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And by then, it was time to check in.
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Yes, the resort is named after The Notch… which was originally used by smugglers and bootleggers. Yet another reason to love it.
A little history if you’re interested…
With cliffs on either side that sometimes reach a height of 1,000 feet, it’s also easy to see how very few people would have been caught on their way to and from one country to another. The landscape looked completely different in the early 1800s and there were far fewer people – and towns – meaning this region was even more remote. After former president Thomas Jefferson passed the Embargo Act in 1807, the restriction of trade between countries had a drastically negative impact on the state of Vermont. As the state shares a border with Canada, this trade route was by far the easiest to use, and once that was cut off there were many citizens and businesses that suffered in the northern part of the state.
This route was not only used for trading. Fugitive slaves would also utilize the route to make their way through Vermont and into Canada, which gave it another historic purpose.
The use of Smugglers’ Notch didn’t just end there, though. As Vermont progressed into the 20th century, they would be subject to yet another restriction – this time, on alcohol. When Prohibition came about in 1922, the state was lucky enough to have opened Smugglers’ Notch to automobile traffic. This meant that those using the route would no longer need to cross on foot or horseback, which opened up even more illegal trade route options. In this case, it was Vermont’s loophole during the time when it was legally a dry state.
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*Not my photo , but it gives you a better idea of the scope*
The Notch is closed to tractor trailer trucks due to the precarious turns, and though there are ample signs warning them not to enter, a few idiots try it every year, getting stuck and causing horrible traffic jams and back ups.
The entire road is closed for the season starting in mid October so we were lucky and slipped in right before the gates came down.
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Beautiful! The scenery and the food. I like Vermont, but will admit that some of those narrow roads, when wet, unnerve me. Looking forward to your report on Stowe.
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I love those weirdo roads. In places the Notch is nail biting.
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Al Roker showed a satellite picture of New England. You can see the colors from space.
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In places, I wouldn’t doubt it.
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The Notch seems like a dream come true for a Texas girl. All those colors and that winding road, beautiful indeed. I’m so glad you found a spot that had great beer and better food. The pretzel looks delish. As does the hubs butternut squash ravioli, interesting combo I must say but looks just as good.
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Color was sporadic when we were there. Some areas were changing, some still green. I’m sure it’s peak now, we were just a week or so early.
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Wow. Love the rocks and everything else. But mostly the rocks.
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You can’t beat a good rock.
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I am surprised the leaves are still green.
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We found color in some areas, some was still green. But we were there 10 days ago so I’m sure it’s peak by now.
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And the drive may have been even more fantastic!
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Foliage season is hard to predict much less plan vacations around. Normal peak color in the 2nd and 3rd week of October, but it was early this year because of our summer drought.
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Guess I have been in Florida too long. I was under the impression foliage season started November 1, and ended November 2. That is when winter begins and ends as well.
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When you only have one cold day and one dead leaf fall… I can see how you would think that.
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Absolutely gorgeous. And that food looked amazing.
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The maple cream sauce was divine!
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OMG….
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Smuggler’s Notch is on the New England visit list for the bucket list trip there. I first heard of it when investigating skiing locations years back. I still don’t ski, but that’s besides the point. It looked like a great place year-round, and nothing I see here is changing that view at all. Enjoy!
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We love this area. Though we don’t ski and usually visit in the fall.
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I’ll meet you at tue pub at 1!
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If you get there before me? Grab the velvet cow print couch…
👍
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Gorgeous. Invite me next time.
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For the trip, or the beer?
😉
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The drive through the Notch and dinner at the brewery.
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The Notch is fabulous.
👍
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No beer for me.
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Trip it is.
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You had me at hot spiced cider with rum. Everything else is just icing on the cake.
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