Continuing through the English settlement we saw garden plots…
And goats.
Who liked a good chin scratch.
I mean really liked a good chin scratch. This guy followed me the entire length of the fence.
We met a young man chopping firewood…
Who when asked what was in his flask, replied “Beer, of course. The water will make you sick.”
We discovered beer was quite popular in those days.
And if I had to cook all my meals in that contraption behind the women?
I’d drink beer everyday as well.
Colonists popped out at you everywhere…
Some friendly…
Some not.
This woman was the Governor’s wife and therefor had a slightly better home. With wood floors and a proper chimney.
Although the quality of workmanship seemed about the same.
Finished with the colony, we moved on to the museum with it’s eel pot…
It’s sea suit.
And because I knew you’d ask…
And it’s Mayflower provision list.
250 lbs of bacon and 280 lbs of butter… That will hold me for 8 weeks, but what will the rest of you eat?
Though I do have to say, that list seems a little suspect. Considering margarine was invented in 1868 and Rice Krispies in 1927…I highly doubt they were aboard the original ship in 1620.
WTH?
But the museum did have the Mooflower….
And an anatomically correct, trouser wearing, sea going cow vessel?
Makes up for a lot of historical inaccuracies.
Last up was the petting barn where we found…
Yes.
One rabbit…
Apparently the pilgrims ate everyone else before we got there.
But then we saw…
So we met Hyacinth.
And may I just say?
She was a bitch.
I tried to pet her and almost lost a finger. She tried to head butt a few children and looked ready to go 12 rounds with a service dog that walked by.
If you’re approaching that age when you yell at the kids to get off your lawn? Don’t get a shotgun…
Done with the Indian village, we walked through an exhibition hall full of 17th century replica pottery.
It was a bit odd. But there was a still…
And an 8 handed mug…
So that probably explains it. That, and the fact water was often polluted so they drank mostly beer and/or alcohol.
Onward to the colonist’s settlement….
First, the fort which commanded the high ground.
With it’s wonderful old cannons.
Then down into the settlement.
It was explained to us that all the employees would be playing the parts of characters based on the original inhabitants, wearing authentic clothing and speaking in the language of the period. We were encouraged to interact with them as such.
Before visiting here I was under the impression that the Pilgrims came to the new world to escape religious persecution. And while that’s true to an extent, it’s not the whole story. They actually fled to the Netherlands first, which explains all the windmills you see in this part of the country.
The settlers in Plymouth were actually sponsored by England to colonize America. They were given ship’s passage and supplies and were expected to send back goods (mostly furs and pelts) to repay the investment. After 7 years of this, they were granted land… something working class people had no hope of obtaining back home.
Of course nothing went as planned. They were supposed to land in New York, but they landed in Massachusetts. They were supposed to land in September, but they landed in December.
They were supposed to fish for food, but there were no fisherman. They were supposed to build a town, but there were no trained carpenters.
Piss poor planning if you ask me.
Hell, a large percentage of them didn’t even live through the first winter.
But they’d brought some livestock…
And as we know, managed to survive if not yet thrive.
This fellow was trying to frame a window.
On the exterior of this house.
And if you think the Indians had it bad, imagine 15 people living and sleeping in here at a time.
Check out the slight list of the house on the far right. If I didn’t know better, I’d say the husband had a hand in it’s construction.
Personally, I loved the roofs…
Fashioned from rolled reeds, they begged to be petted.
In the next house we found this fellow, and the husband initiated a conversation.
I’m guessing the man had stage experience, because he was seriously deep in character.
(And before you laugh at my incorrect title spelling, it happens to be the old fashioned way Gov. William Bradford referred to the original colony and in order to differentiate it from the town of Plymouth, the museum chose the alternate version for it’s name. So there spelling Nazi’s!)
(And before you food picture screamers start screaming for food, here are the pics from the previous night’s dinner that I forgot to include in the last post.)
Wicked.
A restaurant and wine bar in Mashpee famous for their wood fired pizza.
The first thing I thought of when we walked in was why do they have candy corn lights hanging over the bar?
But then I tasted their fabulous Basil Lemon Fizz…
And couldn’t have cared less.
Since they’re famous for pizza, we had pizza.
Though the menu made me apprehensive about choosing the wrong combination. Who needs that kind of ridicule at the dinner table?
We went with the grilled portabella with spinach, roasted red peppers, caramelized onions, mozzarella, roasted garlic and truffle combo… and in a word? Yum!
The morning of vacation day 3 dawned bright and sunny although cold, so we actually left the Cape Cod proper and headed north to Plymouth.
Yes, that Plymouth. Home of the Rock, the Pilgrims and the first Thanksgiving. We were going to get our history geek on.
And just like Hyannis builds an economy around the Kennedys? Plymouth builds it’s entire town on the Pilgrims landing there first. ( The question is… did they? More on that later.)
Entering through the visitors center, we began our journey back in time to the 17th century. This is a living museum and replicates what life would have been like through interaction with Native American and Colonists. It was a blast!
First up… the Indian Village, where we saw a dug out canoe.
And a live demonstration of how they’re made.
By Native American twins.
No, they weren’t actors. Though their tribe was actually from New York state and not local to Plymouth. They patiently explained the process involved in crafting this sea going canoe and believe me when I tell you it was cold that day. All the tourists were bundled up and these guys were half naked. Which, to be honest…. wasn’t a hardship for me.
😈
This area is right on the water and there was a pretty stiff breeze. Yes, there was a little heat from the fire but not enough to make me strip… nope. Uh uh!
The fascinating part was, when I asked him why he wasn’t cold like the rest of us…. his answer astounded me. Diet, and conditioning. He told us that Indians traditionally pay close attention to nutrition, eating a mostly plant based diet supplemented by light fish and chicken in the summer and red meat only in the winter, when the body requires more fuel to maintain it’s internal temperature. He said the white man’s habit of covering himself in heavy clothing when it’s cold tricks the body to believing it’s summer all year long, therefor not allowing it acclimate naturally.
Seriously, I was shivering in 19 degree wind chill …. and he was bare chested.
Another interesting fact? They were getting ready to submerge all the canoes in the water for the winter so they would freeze and be preserved for next year.
Any guess what this is?
People were guessing hunting blind or something to do with food storage but believe it or not… it’s a jungle gym for children.
There were multiple structures to explore…
And I seriously hoped the husband wasn’t getting any construction ideas.
No, we don’t need one of these at home.
Though the dolls with their own dug out canoe were sweet.
It’s strange, you can read all the books you want…. but walking through the village and experiencing how the original Americans lived first hand? Gives you an entirely new understanding.
This was the winter long house….
Where multiple families spent the colder months.
Traditionally 3 fires would be burning at all times, and yes. It was a wee bit smokey.
The woman in the middle was our guide for this section…
And though in Native dress…
You can tell she didn’t subscribe to the bare chested boys diet regimen. Wool socks and furs for her, even inside.
I can’t imagine 20-30 people living and sleeping in there together for months on end… no less your entire family.
I’d be suicidal in a week.
We sat on these beds/benches and let me tell you….
I don’t care how many animals skins you throw on them…. they were hard as a rock.
Privacy? What’s that. You’d literally be head to toe with Uncle Joe and cousin Sue all winter.
Heading back to our resort after lunch we stopped in at Devil’s Purse brewery in South Dennis.
It’s an unassuming little place in a warehouse, with a beam for a bar…
And slab topped barrel tables with no seats. Personally I’m not fond of this concept, but space was limited and they probably don’t want to encourage you to linger.
That being said their beer was good. Very good… and we enjoyed our time there.
Sadly, they didn’t do flights which is my preferred way to sample a new brewery’s offerings.
But they did offer 4 ounce pours… (at roughly a dollar an ounce!) and we tried quite a few.
They specialize in European style beer and we specialize in never liking the same one. The Pollock RIP IPA was too bitter for me, while the Shore Laddie blackberry porter was too rich for him. But we both loved their plum saison Season In Hell…. enough to buy a growler to take home.
The tasting room is also dog friendly which is fun.
No, Fido wasn’t drinking. His owner just wanted a good picture.
Sound like anyone you know…?
Back in Hyannis, we decided to stop at the Cape Cod brewery which is by far the largest and most popular.
But as with most things, size doesn’t matter.
(Sorry fellas, but it’s true)
Saturday afternoon at 3:45 and the place was packed. Though why that was, I really can’t say.
When we got to the bar…. we were told they were closing in 15 minutes and wouldn’t be able to do a flight, but we could order a small pour or two.
Please explain this reasoning, because I’m confused. You do flights, but won’t give us one because you’re closing soon…. but you will pour us multiple smalls. What’s the difference?
And to that…. closing at 4:00 on a Saturday afternoon. WTH? When we asked why they closed so early on the weekend, we were told it’s because their workers want to have fun too.
It’s a good thing the entire restaurant and bar industry doesn’t follow this trend….we’d all be forced to have fun at home.
And no one wants that.
But, it was beer and we must drink. Which we did, though I wish we hadn’t…
Personal table top ring toss games aside, their beer was as flat and uninteresting as their let’s close early! business plan. We drank 4 between us and I couldn’t even finish one of mine.
I. Left. Beer. On. The. Table.
Yeah, that’s bad.
And yet we had bartenders tell us this is the tourist’s preferred brand.
Okay, they have a gift store.
And heavily merchandise their product.
But it will take more than that to get me to drink it again.
We drove back to the resort at dusk, remembering that the desk clerk recommended we watch the sunset at the nearby South Cape Beach State Park.
So thank you Sea Mist Resort desk clerk.
We took your advice.
And ended our first full day at the Cape….
Surrounded by natural beauty….
Fresh ocean air…
Beautiful colors…
And a growing appreciation for your part of the world.
As many of you probably know, John F. Kennedy’s family’s compound is in Hyannis… and when you’re there it’s pretty hard to escape the fact. Streets, housing developments, restaurants…. they’re all named for some part of the Kennedy legacy. So we said if you can’t beat em, join em….. and visited the JFK museum.
Unfortunately it was under construction when we visited…
So there won’t be any good exterior shots…
Or good interior shots for that matter because photography was prohibited. I’m not really sure why, as there were very few vintage artifacts to flash damage. And to be honest, the whole place was disappointing. It consisted of multiple rooms filled with large photos, prints and news clippings that I could have just easily researched online. From my couch, in my pajamas. The real museum is in Boston… so my advice? Skip this one and drive to beantown.
Unless you’re in desperate need of some presidential socks…
Which I bootlegged a picture of.
Since it was a beautiful day, we strolled to the harbor next.
Where the husband made friends with a seagull..
Who didn’t seem too pleased with the rules.
Being off season and November, the art shanties were vacant…
But it must be wonderful to walk there in the summer and watch local artists at work.
This time of year the harbor was home to charter and fishing boats.
As most of the tourists have fled for warmer ports.
But it was a pretty spot to watch the ferry come in from Martha’s Vineyard.
And enjoy the day.
Unless you’re a dog walker….
Who apparently have to follow closely behind their pets and strategically aim a saucepan at Fido’s butt.
No trip south of Maine can escape Boston traffic… and in a word?
Okay, technically that’s 2 words.
But it still sucks.
The Tobin Bridge is attractive…
But directly after that is the Callahan Tunnel, which is not.
Of course my aversion to it may have something to do with the fact that we’re always bumper to bumper in the dark and instead of the posted 40 mph speed limit? The husband is flying through at 80 while darting in and out of traffic trying to get 3 inches ahead of the next car. Driving is a competition dontcha know…
Blah, blah, blah.
Safe trip…. hello Cape Cod!
We stayed at the Sea Mist Resort in Mashpee, Massachusetts which is considered the Upper Cape.
And it was a good base from which we could explore.
Quiet, wooded and off season? It was practically deserted, which is how we like it.
We had a one bedroom townhouse with two bathrooms and a cathedral ceiling.
A nice full kitchen with granite countertops and wood floors.
It was clean, and spacious…
Although when it came to the living room furniture and color scheme?
Yes, it was bland.
But hell… clean, quiet and spacious trumps ugly any day.
Did I mention there were 2 full bathrooms? That’s unusual in a one bedroom timeshare condo and I took full advantage…. giving the husband this smaller one.
It was a little odd having a window in the bedroom that looked out on the living room….
But it made for a nice little reading nook when the husband was knee deep in MSNBC every night.
The bedroom was a good size with a super comfortable, although not king sized, bed.
It also had a full length mirror which earns it an extra star in my book as none of them ever do.
After unpacking, (which looks like this for me…
And this for him…
(Men. How is it possible we’re the same species?) We headed out for a late lunch/early dinner.
Mashpee Commons was nearby and one of the largest shopping centers on the Cape. While attractive and filled with interesting stores and restaurants, it was also a nightmare when it came to parking. We circled and circled… and circled some more until we squeezed into a tiny spot. Christ! It was the dead season of November, I can’t imagine what it would be like in the summer.
We landed at Bobby Byrne’s pub…
Where I got in the Cape Cod spirit with a cranberry and grapefruit cocktail. (Or two)
When you’re in the Cape, it’s all about the cranberry.
I wanted the huge gigantic pretzel, because seriously… it was huge.
But went with the grilled chicken quesadillas and sriracha crema instead.
Damn! They were good.
Husband had his usual French Onion soup which I swear… contained at least a pound of cheese.
Then we shared a chicken broccoli alfredo.
Which was delightfully rich and garlicky.
Did I mention the beer was extremely cold?
Literally, ice cold.
(Are you food picture screamers satisfied? Day 1 and you got multiple food photos. You’re welcome… now be quiet.)
Bellies full, we grocery shopped to stock the kitchen…. and then called it a night.
One more picture…
Because skylights in the living room require an after dark selfie….
So I hope you’ve been enjoying my White Mountain vacation series. I know I tend to go a little overboard with the pictures, but what can I say?
I’ll have you know it took me an entire week to wade through the 1704 shots I’d taken and distill it down to a reasonable essence.
Alright… yes.
The essence is going to run halfway through December, but just think how long it would have gone on if I hadn’t distilled.
Sorry, that was harsh.
Khaled had me feeling a little street.
Anyhoo… the reason for this post?
Remember when I told you we were going to have to cram a few vacations in before the end of the year because the husband wasn’t retiring? Well, good news! We just finished vacation week number two and are probably on the road returning from Cape Cod as you read this.
Yup.
That means another tsunami of photographs from our coastal Massachusetts adventures.
Nope.
Sorry, I can’t.
Hard to believe that in all the years I’ve lived in New England, I’ve never visited that region…. and though we’re going off season, I’m sure we had a blast. My plan was to hop the car ferry over to Martha’s Vineyard as well but we’ll play that by ear as I don’t know their winter schedule.
So sit back and enjoy the (virtual) ride.
Because you followed me, silly.
Now pay the price and enjoy the modern version of your 1950’s neighbor’s slide show.
Where there's only one step from the sublime to the ridiculous.